“He who ruled scent, ruled the heart of men”
1.Parfume as an obsession in a book
The Divine Perfume is the inspiration that gives birth to Patrick Süskind’s famous eponymous book. We see the grotesque image of Jean-Baptiste Grenouille, a genial perfumer, a killer born in Paris before the French Revolution. Coming unwanted behind a fish rack and throwing himself in the dirt, Jean-Baptiste is devoid of his own smell, but is endowed with a unique flair that captures fragrances capable of touching God. Suskind opposes the smell and ugliness of the backyards of Paris from the second half of the 18th century with the subtle and enchanting scents found by Jean-Baptiste. His dream is to create the most influential perfume with the fragrance of the eternal woman created by God for love and temptation. Kills the most gentle, beautiful, clean, and attractive women to capture their fragrances and put them in a vial. The unachievable desire of man to extract the divine scent logically leads to the finale of the book – Jean-Baptiste Grenouille is punished for his deeds.
2. Parfumes and their ingredients
Perfumes contain on average over 200 substances of plant, animal and chemical origin. Universal solvent is high concentration ethanol (96%) which dissolves a combination of essential oils. Rose oil is the most widespread foundation on which the “body of the perfume” is built, the uniqueness of which is due to the specific combination and ratio of the other ingredients. Most of them are extracted in the form of resins and juices from different parts of plants, and a smaller part is from animal secretions. For the production of some perfumes, besides natural fragrances, artificial ones can also be used.
3. History of perfumery
The art of creating perfumes originated in Mesopotamia. According to written records, the first chemist to create perfume is a woman named Taputa. Her name is mentioned in a censorship from the second millennium before Christ in Mesopotamia. It distills flowers, oils and swamp aire with other aromatic substances, then filters them and returns them to the distiller several times in a row.
In the 9th century Arabic chemist Al-Kindi wrote “The Book of Perfume and Distillery Chemistry”. It contains the first hundred recipes for aromatic oils, ointments, aromatic waters and substitutes or imitations of expensive medicines.
Persian chemist Ibn Sina, also known as Avicenna, introduces the process of extracting oil from flowers by distillation. This is also the method most commonly used today. He conducted the first experiments with roses. Rose water instantly gains popularity and becomes the basis of perfumery to date.
In Western Europe perfume is known since 1221 according to the preserved recipes of the monks of Santa Maria Novella from Florence, Italy. In the East in 1370, the Hungarians produced a perfume made of flavored oils mixed with an alcohol solution, ordered by Queen Elizabeth of Hungary. This mixture is known as Hungarian water.
The art of perfumery has flourished during the Renaissance in Italy when in the 16th century Italian perfumes were taken to France by Katerina Medici’s personal perfumer Rene of Florence. Thanks to Rene of Florence, France is rapidly becoming the center of European perfume and cosmetics production. And since the 18th century, it has been a key industry for the economy of Southern France.
4. Perfume Types
Le Parfum – the purest and most durable form of flavoring with the highest concentration of ethereal oils
Eau de Perfume is the most common form with a shelf life of 8-12 hours.
Eau de Toilette is less durable than perfume water and lasts between 5 and 8 hours.
The Eau de Cologne lasts up to 4 hours and is used as a supportive in men’s shaving water cosmetics.
Perfumed Body Water is very scented, but is a good moisturizer.
“Legend is celebrating a celebrity,” says Coco Chanel, notorious for how powerful it will be in the perfumery industry to date.
In 1922, she created the fragrance “woman smell perfume”. This is actually Chanel 5 – the perfume that has remained the most profitable and popular fragrance of the brand to this day.
Chanel perfumes are a complex mixture of aldehydes and floral motifs – including rose, ylang-ylang, jasmine, lily of the valley and iris, with lightweight vetiver, sandalwood, vanilla, amber and patchouli. After creating the fragrance, the world of branded perfumes is different.
Guerlain is one of the oldest fashion houses in the world with over 170 years of history. , Guerlain is a family business and is passed on from generation to generation from 1828 to 1994. As a doctor and chemist, Guerlain creates innovative and revolutionary fragrances and cosmetics that instantly lead to great success. He and his two sons devote themselves to producing perfumes by creating individual scents for some of the world’s greatest celebrities such as Judy Garland, Elizabeth Taylor and many others. Guerlain is the first brand to create niche, author’s perfume and high-end series.
Dior is an artistic personality with many new ideas in the fashion business. America has been awarded the Oscar for Fashion award, and its glory and success are always accompanied by the delicate scents it creates. His first fragrance “Miss Dior”, which was released in 1947, is also the most cherished perfume of the brand to date.